The Department for Work and Pensions
Caxton House, Tothill Street, London SW1H 2NS

I thought I would soon get heartily sick of reviewing every department’s Friday fish ‘n chips – but if all of them are as good as DWP’s, that will take a very long time indeed.

On a dreary grey autumn day, I loped into Caxton House with low expectations. Yet more spongiform batter, I thought. Service more bristly than a long-distance lorry driver, I imagined. Both of these ideas were quickly dispelled.

The canteen was bustling with activity, while the serving staff were exceptionally helpful. I changed my choice of fillet three times, but the lady behind the counter was accommodating and even chuckled at my indecision.

Indeed, everyone in the café seemed cheerful. It was packed with civil servants chattering over lunch about work proposals or their weekend plans. Further, they had all chosen the fish and chips! Was this mere coincidence?

I think not. The portions were a hearty size, with large fillets of fish and big, chunky chips. Also on offer was a hefty dollop of mushy peas – stodgy, but satisfying.

The batter has been underwhelming in all the canteens so far, but DWP got it right. I was starting to wonder whether all canteen batter was the same, but now I know: if they want to make it crispy, they can. All it takes is a little effort. It wasn’t overly greasy, it wasn’t soft and squeezy, it was thin and tasty. Perfect.

As for the chips, they were good too. Hot, soft, although a little dry – they reminded me of oven chips. Northern readers will be pleased to know that gravy was free. Southern readers will be disappointed to note that ketchup and vinegar cost 9p per sachet. There was, however, a huge bucket of tartar sauce, and a complimentary lemon for the more sophisticated lunchers.

Pleasingly, it’s possible to pay in cash. Other places rely on irritating swipe cards, but not here: you could pay in single pennies if you counted them all out. You’d be a bit weird if you did, though.

There were a few downsides. For a start, it was tricky to find any water, with the canteen evidently hoping you’ll purchase a bottle of fizzy pop. And they also need to sort out the lighting – there’s a peculiar yellow glow that could make people feel a little queasy if they were to stay too long. Finally, there was something tacky about the décor, that meant it wasn’t as comfy as Parliament or as functional and clean as the Treasury.

And so, to the scores: Fish 5; Chips 4; Batter 5; Accompaniments 4; Surroundings 3. Total: 21/25. The best plaice so far, ba-doom tish.

fish 'n' chips, review, canteen, restaurant

Last updated 217 days ago by Civil Service World