Santorini island in the Southern Aegean is the product of one of the largest volcanic explosions ever recorded; one that led, it is said, to a huge tsunami and the destruction of Minoan civilisation in Crete.
What’s left today of Santorini (the name’s not Greek, but Latin in origin) mostly comprises the rim of that huge volcano. Only around 14,000 Greeks live there, but they make the most of its spectacular scenery to attract both tourists and select international conferences. They make wine for export, too; though their total area is only 28 square miles – just over half that of Jersey – the volcanic ash has created soil that some vines love.
In particular, their white grape Assyrtiko – of indigenous and ancient lineage – is a delicious, dry, citrus-scented treat, heralded by an irresistibly attractive lemon-gold “robe” (as the French say) in the glass. The nose is both citrus and mineral, with hints of smoke: the volcano leaving its mark.
Then, on the palate, a great balance of flavours. Yes, it’s dry, but this bottle is not as dry as some I’ve tasted in other years. There’s subdued fruit, as of ripe lemons, a little nutmeg in the touch of spice, and a truly multi-dimensional and satisfying finish. Two other indigenous grapes, in small quantities, are blended in. Waitrose is featuring this wine in its ‘Mediterranean Wine Showcase’, which knocks £2 off its usual price. It will go well with fish – but first, enjoy it on its own.
The showcase also embraces Kosovo (though it lies inland from the Med) in the shape of a red Balkan grape: Vranac. Not the best bedfellow, it might be thought, for our Assyrtiko, as Greece (along with Spain, Cyprus, Slovakia and Romania) refuses to join the UK in recognising Kosovo as an independent state.
If you have ever been to the Dalmatian coast (now mostly Croatia) it’s likely you’ve encountered their fearsomely strong red, Plavac. Could this Vranac (roll the “r”, and say “itch” for the final “c”) be related?
Thankfully – at least to my taste – it is not. It was unexpectedly refreshing, and much lighter in alcohol (only 12.5 per cent by vol.) than Plavac; a lively wine, its fruit more red berry than black – think perhaps some Cabernet Francs from the Loire. The nose spoke of raspberries. There’s moderated acidity throughout, and a finish which pleasantly ranges through short, mostly tannic flavours.
It is odd that this new Balkan entry to the international wine market should be called “Stonecastle”. But I see that, on recognising Kosovo’s independence, the PM pledged up to £23m in aid. A cue for a parliamentary question? Are we working on making Albanian-speakers Anglophone?
Graham Gendall Norton
